DISNEY X BALMAIN: THE LION KING, SYMPHONY OF COLORS, CULTURE AND COLLABORATION
I was intrigued by a story posted on the Instagram by Oliver Rousting, creative director of a French luxury fashion house, the Balmain, in which he expressed his excitement for an upcoming confidential project in South Africa. Thoughts were running through my mind trying to anticipate the upcoming project until the day Oliver Rousting posted a film featuring his designs from a limited-edition collection, on his Instagram account which made my jaw hit the ground in awe because it was not any conventional limited-edition collection, it was a collection created in collaboration with Disney for celebrating 30th anniversary of Disney’s classic “The Lion King.” It has been three decades since The Lion King was first released, but this iconic collaboration made us relive the magical moments we experienced in our childhood.
“The Lion King has created a symphony of colors, culture, and collaboration under the sapphire sky that has moved us all to believe in magic once again but this time through the lens of fashion.”
Olivier Rousting was born and bred in France and considered himself to be a mixed race. However, discovered in 2019 that he is fully African. This film not only celebrates The Lion King’s 30th anniversary but also Oliver Rousteing’s homecoming, which in the film is inspired by Simba’s homecoming. Shot against the golden sand of South Africa, this film by director from South London with Nigerian heritage, Femi Oladigbolu, captures the striking designs, breathtaking scenery and Rousting-led Balmain army, composed of models from all across Africa. To celebrate 30 years of Disney’s classic Disney x Balmain: The Lion King has created a symphony of colors, culture, and collaboration under the sapphire sky that has moved us all to believe in magic once again but this time through the lens of fashion.
The Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection aims to celebrate African culture and heritage by offering ready-to-wear designs and accessories for men and women while giving creative freedom to the emerging talents of Africa to showcase their creativity on global platform representing a contemporary side of African culture through this collaboration. Storytelling holds great significance in the textiles and garments of African cultures. It depicts historical events, local legends, and ancestral tales, serving as a medium for passing down traditions and knowledge through generations. The artwork selected for this collection by emerging African artists tell the story of a contemporary and futurist Africa while keeping the essence of African fashion, such as bold and colorful motifs and patterns, alive.
South African painter Nika Mtwana created a compelling Afrofuturistic portrait for the collection—cleverly managing to incorporate a scene from “The Lion King” into his work, via a reflection on the lens of his subject’s sunglasses. Rousteing adapted Mtwana’s design into the colorful prints that cover some of the limited-edition collection’s tees, tops and dresses.
Relaxed T-shirt with Nika Mtwana print 
Satin pajama shirt with Nika Mtwana printCameroonian painter Enfant Precoce’s concentrates on Disney’s Simba, with his artwork showing “The Lion King” star navigating through a dreamlike landscape filled with an array of African wildlife. Precoce’s design—in an array of black-and-white and multi-colored variations—covers totes, coats, suits, tees and gowns.
Long crepe coat with Enfant Précoce print
1945 Soft XXL tote bag with Enfant Précoce printSouth African painter Aassius Khumalo relies on a striking mix of vivid blue, deep black and gold-foil to create an eye-catching portrait of Disney’s Nala, the film’s strong and independent lioness. Khumalo’s powerful image has been adapted for a series of totes, tees and hoodies.
Cropped T-shirt with Cassius Khumalo print
Hoodie with Cassius Khumalo printThis collection finds its inspiration in intricate embroidery and artisanal skills of Africa. The incorporation of beads and sequins in designs not only created shimmering effects but also showed the cultural significance of beadwork in African fashion. Beadwork is an ancient and fascinating craft African cultures have practiced for centuries. It is more than a decorative technique; beads carry deep symbolic meanings. For instance, in the Maasai culture, different colors of beads represent different values and messages—red symbolizes bravery, blue signifies energy, and white represents purity. It is a labor-intensive craft that requires patience and skill and has remained a vibrant and evolving aspect of African fashion heritage, reflecting the continent's rich cultural diversity and artistic legacy. In Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection, traditional beading techniques are used to create culturally infused designs that appeal to both local and global markets.
The incorporation of raffia in designs showcases the meticulous handcrafted details that are essential to traditional African textiles, bringing an element of authenticity and artistry to the collection. Raffia, derived from the raffia palm, is a traditional material used in various African cultures for weaving and crafting for example in the wrap-skirt of Kuba women. The wrap-skirts of Kuba women in the western Congo basin are a social construct, standing for the communal artistry of the Kuba clans as the result of a combined effort between men and women. The raffia cloth is chosen as the material for these embroidered cloths because of its abundance and its historical use as currency, directly associating the material with value and importance. The cloth is woven by men and decorated through the joint effort of several women, each completing a unique and compositionally different raffia square from the woman before her. Worn by the living during ritual celebrations and festivities and by the deceased for funerals and burial, the traditional skirts act preserves the cultural values and heritage of the Kuba and displays the strong social relationships within their community.
Kuba cloth from the Congo is handwoven using the strands from raffia palm leaves. The raffia strands are dyed in a variety of earth tones using vegetable dyes
Incorporation of raffia in Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection
Raffia’s inclusion in the Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection aligns with the theme of celebrating African heritage and the approach to incorporate it into the global market bridging gap between traditional African crafts and contemporary fashion. The natural texture of raffia added unique texture and dimension to the garments, contrasting with other materials used in the collection, such as silk or cotton, highlighting the artisanal craftsmanship that is a hallmark of African textiles. Its use also aligns with growing trends towards sustainability in fashion, promoting eco-friendly practices and materials. Using raffia connects the collection to natural elements, reflecting the themes of the lion king, which emphasizes the beauty and importance of the natural world.
Bold prints and patterns inspired by African textiles and wildlife are prominently featured, paying homage to the cultural and natural elements of the African landscape, and luxurious fabrics such as silk, satin, and velvet are used to give the collection a high-end feel while also ensuring comfort and durability.
Techniques like layering and draping are employed to add dimension and movement to the pieces, creating a dynamic and visually striking look. Modern cuts and structured silhouettes are incorporated to blend contemporary fashion with traditional influences. These techniques help to create a collection that is both visually captivating and culturally resonant.
Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection features silhouettes inspired by the Tsonga skirt, often referred to as "xibelani" or "tinguvu," which holds significant cultural importance among the Tsonga people of southern Africa, particularly in South Africa and Mozambique. The xibelani skirt is a symbol of the Tsonga cultural identity. It is traditionally worn by women during cultural celebrations, rituals, and ceremonies, such as weddings, traditional dances, and other festive occasions. The xibelani is closely associated with traditional Tsonga dance.
Xibelani- this has different colors made from different cloths and has bindings mostly of gold because gold brings in the brightness to material. Others go to an extent of putting extras that could either be ribbons
Silhouette inspired by xibelani skirt in Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection
The skirt's design, which includes multiple layers of colorful fabric, enhances the visual effect of the dance movements. When women dance, the skirt flares out and accentuates their hip movements, which are a distinctive feature of Tsonga dance. The making of xibelani skirts involves intricate craftsmanship. The skirts are often handmade, with careful attention to detail in terms of color, pattern, and fabric selection. This craftsmanship is a form of artistic expression and showcases the creativity and skill of the makers. In some Tsonga communities, wearing a xibelani skirt is part of the rite of passage for young girls. It marks their transition into womanhood and their readiness to participate fully in community activities. By continuing to wear and make xibelani skirts, the Tsonga people preserve their cultural heritage and pass down their traditions to future generations. The skirt serves as a tangible connection to their history and customs. During communal gatherings, the xibelani skirt fosters a sense of unity and belonging among the Tsonga people. It represents their shared cultural background and reinforces community bonds. Overall, the Tsonga skirt is much more than a piece of clothing; it is a vibrant emblem of the Tsonga people's cultural pride, traditions, and artistic heritage.
Disney x Balmain: The Lion King collection does feature elements inspired by African artistry and culture. However, the collection is not hundred percent made by African artisans. It blends Balmain's high-fashion design with influences from "The Lion King," including African motifs and craftsmanship. While some pieces might incorporate techniques and aesthetics inspired by African artisans, the primary production is done by Balmain's own design and manufacturing teams. Producing this collection in Africa could have provided several benefits to African artisans and communities, such as creating jobs and providing income for local artisans, thereby supporting their families and communities. Collaborating with a high-end fashion brand like Balmain could have helped artisans develop new skills and techniques, enhancing their craftsmanship and gaining exposure to international markets, potentially opening up more opportunities for their work and elevating the profile of African craftsmanship. Incorporating traditional African techniques and motifs in the production process could have helped in preserving and promoting indigenous crafts and cultural heritage.
Disney x Balmain: The Lion King showcases intricate craftsmanship and artisanal skills of Africa increasing visibility for African-inspired designs, and potentially inspiring more interest in African fashion and culture. However, it would have been more beneficial for African artisans if it was 100 percent made by them. The collaboration could have helped in the preservation of traditional methods and techniques of weaving, dyeing, embroidery, and beadwork by passing them down through generations. Collaborations like these can create economic opportunities for African designers and artisans. If done respectfully and authentically, such collections can honor and preserve cultural narratives and create a mutually beneficial relationship between the brand and the artisans
