By Brittany Furber

As we bundle up for fall and winter, it can be fun to glance ahead at what we have to look forward to in the coming season (See my 5 favorite trends from F/W 22 linked here). There were many trends this season and some showed up in so many collections that you lose count. However, these are just five examples I enjoy from their lineup and am excited about incorporating into my wardrobe.

Functional or Aesthetically Pleasing Pleats

Benefits:

One trend that I loved from the Spring/Summer 2023 season is functional or aesthetically pleasing pleats. Pleats can offer and add visual interest to an otherwise simple look or even an already complex one. Functionally, pleats provide a more tailored fit.

Examples for Inspiration and Approach:

Pleats were almost everywhere in the spring and summer 2023 collections. Pleats adorned skirts subtly or obviously. They were a feature of bodices and other areas of a garment. This construction detail was either functional or decorative. As demonstrated on VogueRunway.com and WWD.com, Akris, Balenciaga, Balmain, Christian Dior, Dries Van Noten, Erdem, Givenchy, Gucci, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, and Zuhair Murad are just some of the brands that featured this construction element in their lineups. 

There are a few instances where pleats are more decorative than functional. At Akris, as seen on VogueRunway.com, pleats are at the neckline and right below the collar of a dress (See look 42). The pleats add pizazz to a more streamlined silhouette. In one Valentino look from WWD.com, they are used to add texture to a blazer (See look 20).

Functional pleats are within the collection of Giambattista Valli, as seen at Vogue.com. In look 5, they are present for fit purposes within the shorts of this ensemble. Pleats of this nature can be found in many collections, as they are a component of tailoring. 

Images by (Left to Right) Sheyilor Photography on Pexels; Renan Rezende on Pexels; naeim jafari on Unsplash

Eye-catching or Subtle Perforated Textiles

Benefits:

The next trend I enjoyed from the Spring/Summer 2023 season is eye-catching or subtle perforated textiles. Mesh, eyelets, certain types of lace, and other fabrics with small to larger holes fall under this category. Some of the benefits of these textiles include adding texture or visual interest to a look.

Examples for Inspiration and Approach:

Perforated textiles in many variations are present in the Spring/Summer 2023 collections. They might be part of or consist of a complete garment. Perforated fabrics are in the collections of Alaïa, Chanel, Christian Dior, Dries Van Noten, Dion Lee, Khaite, Max Mara, and more, as seen on WWD.com and VogueRunway.com. 

As seen on WWD.com, throughout the house of Dior’s collection, perforated textiles create visual interest. They can contrast with another fabric or skin to display lacey details (see look 14) or provide surface ornamentation within a look (15). Look 15 uses a variety of motifs within its construction, creating distinct sections within it. Look 82 from VogueRunway.com creates contrast by having softer lines in the outlines of the lace in some panels and harsher geometric perforations in others.

Images by (Left to Right) Minh Pham on Unsplash; Vinicius "amnx" Amano on Unsplash; Tamara Bellis on Unsplash

“Matchy Matchy” Fashion Revival

Benefits:

Another trend that was great to see this season was a revival of matching sets. While the tendency to wear matching pieces fell out of favor for a time, it has numerous benefits. Most would cite that it makes dressing easy, but there are other positive attributes to wearing “matchy matchy” styles. While the set matches, you can use other accompanying garments and accessories as opportunities to create contrast or visual interest. You can also select multi-color matching sets and pull one color from their textile to bring the look together while not being a perfect match. You can also use the ease of matching sets to challenge yourself to style them in many ways.

Examples for Inspiration and Approach:

As seen on WWD.com and VogueRunway.com, matching sets are within the collections of Acne Studios, Carolina Herrera, Calvin Luo, Chanel, Jonathan Simkhai, and Luisa Beccaria. Matching denim sets, for example, were very popular this season. Calvin Luo was one designer to feature them, as seen on VogueRunway.com (see look 20).

The styling of one matching denim set from Luo uses a striped shirt underneath, which creates contrast and a visual focal point (see look 19 VogueRunway.com). At Chanel, in look 42 on WWD.com, one color from the matching suit set is used in small amounts within the shirt that accompanies the look. The use of this color aligns it with the suit, while the other colors within the top create contrast.  

Images by (Left to Right) Godisable Jacob on Pexels; Godisable Jacob on Pexels; MohamadReza Khashay on Unsplash

Split & Slit Details

Benefits:

The next trend I found fun was slits or splits within various areas of a garment. Pant legs, sleeves, or skirts are frequent areas to find these attributes. When used in skirts or pants, they will bring attention to eye-catching shoes. A slit or split sleeve can draw attention to jewelry. Additionally, slits can allow for ease of movement.

Examples for Inspiration and Approach:

Splits and slits within garments are in the collections of Alice + Olivia, Bottega Veneta, Etro, Givenchy, Lanvin, and Zuhair Murad, as seen on WWD.com and Vogue.com.

Although the catwalks feature splits and slits in many ways: here are a few examples of inspiration. Alice + Olivia’s collection features pants with high slits showing off the high heels underneath, as seen in Look 12 on VogueRunway.com. At Bottega Veneta, as seen on WWD.com, look 18 features a slit at the thigh, which exposes a contrasting underlayer. At Givenchy, look 47 on VogueRunway.com features a thigh slit toward the front, giving the garment a high low hemline.

Images by (Left to Right) Joshua Chun on Unsplash; Myicahel Tamburini on Pexels; by naeim jafari on Unsplash

Bows of all Styles

Benefits:

Finally, I enjoy seeing bows of all styles in the Spring/Summer 2023 collections. Bows can be of all sizes and shapes, flowy or structured, and with or without the loose ties at the bottom. Bows can be decorative or functional. They might punctuate an otherwise streamlined ensemble or be used to fasten an adjustable hem length in place.

Examples for Inspiration and Approach:

As WWD.com and VogueRunway.com illustrate, bows were present in the collections of Badgley Mischka, Elie Saab, Kate Spade New York, Moschino, and Max Mara. Some examples were large and bold, while others were dainty. There were structured and loose bows.

While there are many uses, and interpretations of bows seen on WWD.com and VogueRunway.com within the collections: here are a few examples. Badgley Mischka, as seen in look 35 on VogueRunway.com, uses a large structured bow as the focal point of a pale blue dress. At Elie Saab, some looks feature thin neck scarves tied in soft bows (see look 10 on WWD.com). Look 48 at Moschino, as seen on VogueRunway.com, features a quirky inflatable bow, aligning with the collection’s day at a pool theme.

Images by (Left to Right) Bach Tran on Unsplash; Laura Chouette on Unsplash; Luca De Massis on Pexels

These were just a few trends from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections. There were also more examples that I enjoyed. For example, there was a trend toward placing ties, straps, and belts at interesting, unconventional places within a garment, as seen on VogueRunway.com and WWD.com, which I would have included if I were compiling a list of ten favorites. Some of the trends I love were repeats from last season, so I choose not to include them again here. More brands spotlight these trends, so look out for that as well.

Be sure to explore other trends from this season and sound off in the comments about which ones were your favorites.

Sources:

Where to View the Collection Online:

Acne Studios Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/acne-studios#gallery-collection.

Alaïa Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/alaia-rtw-spring-1235240978/.

Alice + Olivia Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alice-olivia.

Akris Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/akris#gallery-collection.

Badgley Mischka Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/badgley-mischka#gallery-collection.

Balenciaga Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/balenciaga#gallery-collection.

Balmain Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/balmain#gallery-collection.

Bottega Veneta Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/bottega-veneta-rtw-spring-1235353565/.

Calvin Luo Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/calvin-luo#gallery-collection.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/carolina-herrera-rtw-spring-1235323332/.

Chanel Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/chanel-rtw-spring-1235376993/.

Christian Dior Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/christian-dior-rtw-spring-1235358503/.

Dion Lee Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/dion-lee-rtw-spring-1235319511/.

Dries Van Noten Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/dries-van-noten-rtw-spring-1235361559/.

Elie Saab Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from

https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/elie-saab-rtw-spring-1235370187/.

Erdem Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/erdem#gallery-collection.

Etro Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/etro-rtw-spring-1235349474/.

Givenchy Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/givenchy#gallery-collection.

Giambattista Valli Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/giambattista-valli#gallery-collection.

Givenchy Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/givenchy-rtw-spring-1235371931/.

Gucci Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/gucci-rtw-spring-1235350089/.

Jonathan Simkhai Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/jonathan-simkhai#gallery-collection.

Kate Spade New York Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/kate-spade-new-york#gallery-collection.

Khaite Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/khaite#gallery-collection.

Lanvin Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/lanvin#gallery-collection.

Luisa Beccaria Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/luisa-beccaria-rtw-spring-1235355588/.

Max Mara Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/max-mara#gallery-collection.

Moschino Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/moschino#gallery-collection/.

Valentino Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/valentino-rtw-sprint-1235371287/.

Vogue. Conde Nast, 2023, Vogue.com. Accessed 9th Oct. 2022.

WWD. Penske Media Corporation, WWD.com. Accessed 9th Oct. 2022

Zuhair Murad Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/zuhair-murad#gallery-collection.