By Brittany Furber

Each season there is a broad selection of trends for one to filter through to find those that suit one's style and taste. I previously reviewed five trends I love from the Fall/Winter 2022 season. This week I am revealing the five examples I am NOT feeling from this season. However, I will also provide other versions of these same trends that I prefer instead.

Over-the-Top Wide Shoulders

Examples:

This season wide-shoulders were not only on display, but some cases fell into the over-the-top category. Collections that feature vast shoulders, as seen on VogueRunway.com and within Vogue France Collections Fall/Winter 2022/2023 issue, include Prada, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, and Dolce & Gabbana.

Cons:

When the proportion of wide-shoulder looks is extreme, the appearance can be jarring yet statement-making. The style can be tricky to pull off and may not work for many people. The look at times has a cartoonish quality that will be stimulating but may not work for a professional setting. The trend can be fun, but it isn’t for me. One extreme example is look 13 of Lanvin’s Fall 2022 lineup from VogueRunway.com. The height and width of this dress give off the sense that one could take flight in this look.

Alternatives or Better Versions:

Subtler iterations can make an impact while being more universally and professionally flattering. The examples provided below fall into this category. Saint Laurent (see Look 52 from VogueRunway.com) and Miu Miu (Look 41) also offer some garments that are wide-shouldered but possess more ease. Playing with other proportions within the look helps to articulate the right balance of emphasis.

The examples below fall into the more subtle category.

Images by (Left to Right) CENGIZ AKTURK; Monstera; Nadezhda Diskant from Pexels.

Stand-Alone Sheers

Examples:

Stand-alone sheer garments were another trend that was seen this season. Hermès, Isabel Marant, Schiaparelli, Lecourt Mansion, Chanel, Supriya Lele, and Loewe all feature this theme in their collections, as illustrated in Vogue France Collections Fall/Winter 2022/2023 issue and on VogueRunway.com and WWD.com. 

Cons:

Sheer garments with little to nothing underneath have been trending for a while. Quite frankly, I feel as if it is overdone at this point. The so-called “Naked Dress” is no longer a surprise, it is now a red-carpet staple, and because it makes an appearance so much, the look is starting to feel uninspired. The collections of Schiaparelli and Hermès feature sheer blouses. While the turtleneck top by Hermès has layering capabilities (see look 12 from VogueRunway.com), the shirt by Schiaparelli appears to incorporate solid pasties (see look 6). On their own, these garments are not appropriate for all occasions and would likely get little use.

Alternatives or Better Versions:

To keep this look from becoming stale, I feel that we need to see it used more creatively. Layering and strategic styling are some options. Not only will the sheer garment be presented in a less literal fashion, but it allows for more versatility. The garment will then be wearable in more situations. There are also alternative variations that add subtlety to this look. One great version is seen in the collection by Isabel Marant. The blouse features strategically placed embroidery, which is a more refreshing take on this trend (see look 46 on VogueRunway.com). Surface detail is an alternative to a full-on sheer look and has more options. Supriya Lele provides an example that, while presenting a sheer garment by itself, possesses a unique cut and drape, which allows it to stand out (see look 6 on VogueRunway.com).

The example on the left (below) represents the usual presentation of this trend, while the middle and right images illustrate alternative approaches to this idea.

Images by (Left to Right) Felipe Parucker; Mikhail Nilov; Наталья Маркина from Pexels.

Puffer Style Everything

Examples:

Puffer-style garments and ensembles were prevalent on the Fall/Winter 2022 runways. Rick Owens, Ottolinger, Brunello Cucinelli, Litkovskaya, and Ermanno Scervino all feature puffer garments within their collections this Fall/Winter 2022 season, as observable at VogueRunway.com, WWD.com, Kaltblut-magazine.com, and within the Vogue Collections issue.  

Cons:

Puffer-style pieces can be hard to pull off, depending on their proportions. When a look consists of multiple puffer-style items, it starts to feel a bit cumbersome. While puffers are great for cold temperatures, they are also a little bulky for all-day wear. Rick Owens (see looks 32, 47, and 51 on VogueRunway.com) presents puffer-style ponchos this season which make a statement in a well-articulated manner. However, if one doesn't style these items with slimmer pieces, the ensemble could quickly overtake the wearer.

Alternatives or Better Versions:

It is best to pick and wear only one puffer garment to prevent this look from becoming over the top. One can pair the style with slimmer garments to provide a sense of balance and control the proportions of the ensemble. Quilted variations tend to contribute less bulk as well.

Puffer-style outerwear works well in the examples below because of its pairing with tamer proportioned garments.

Images by (Left to Right) Rosivan Morais; Truman Rexti; cottonbro from Pexels.

All-Day Lingerie

Examples:

Lingerie worn outside the bedroom is not a new concept, but it was prevalent on the Fall/Winter 2022 runways. Day or any-time lingerie appears in collections by Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, Stella McCartney, Ambush, Gucci, and Nensi Dojaka, as seen in the Vogue Collections issue, WWD.com, and VogueRunway.com. The versions here usually fall into the see-through and minimal coverage categories. It is important to note that some examples, like those by Fendi, also fall under the sheer category. However, they feature a bra and underwear underneath.

Cons:

All-day lingerie is a trend that, like stand-alone sheers, feels overdone.  There isn't a specific aesthetic issue with this example. However, in terms of practicality and versatility, this trend falls short. For most, wearing a look of this nature would present a safety hazard and wouldn't translate well into professional situations. There are not many occasions that most would be able to wear this kind of look. Stella McCartney’s collection presents some versions that fall under the category of not having too many uses because they are simply small bras (see look 32 from VogueRunway.com).  

Alternatives or Better Versions:

However, there is an alternative that falls into the same category of this trend at times but is more wearable. Corseted looks, which I discussed previously in my last post, mimic lingerie but can also add structure to a look. For more benefits surrounding this trend, read about it here.

Stella McCartney provides a more versatile take on this lingerie trend by creating a version that aligns more with a micro crop top style that pairs with a matching skirt with the same lace detailing (see look 31 from VogueRunway.com). McCartney also demonstrates ways to provide just a peak at the lingerie underneath, which work well for a subtle approach (see looks 2 and 11 from VogueRunway.com).

The examples below are some, but not all, iterations of this trend. See the collections listed above, linked below under sources, for more versions of this concept.

Images by (Left to Right) Olya Prutskova from Pexels; H.F.E & Co Studio from Unsplash; Снежана from Pexels.

Overboard Oversized

Examples:

Oversized garments have been popular for a while now, but in some cases, their proportions become extra extreme. This trend was in the line-ups of Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, Roksanda, Simone Rocha, Del Core, and Louis Vuitton, as seen within the Vogue Collections issue and at VogueRunway.com.

Cons:

Similar to the use of multiple or oversized puffer garments, wearing garments that have colossal dimensions can add unwanted bulk or create a foreshortening effect. For those with a shorter stature, the everything oversized trend doesn’t always work well. For example, look 4 from Marc Jacobs’s collection on VogueRunway.com is a large cerulean sweater with extra oversized sleeves tied about the waist. This look could get very bulky on some frames and make those smaller in stature appear shorter. 

Alternatives or Better Versions:

Interpretations of this trend that I prefer tend to fall into the creative emphasis on one area of the garment, with smaller proportions throughout the look. For example, at Del Core, the collection features an outfit with a long and wide sleeve or wide pant leg, but the rest of the ensemble is more streamlined (see looks 6, 25, and the entire collection on VogueRunway.com). The result is that the viewer can easily see the focal point of a look, and the details do not blur together.

Pairing one statement-making oversized garment with a more fitted one helps one avoid some of the cons associated with massive proportions.

Images by (Left to Right) from Malicki M Beser from Unsplash; Reza Delkhosh from Unsplash; SHVETS production from Pexels.

Overall, whatever trends one chooses to partake in each season depends on one’s lifestyle, taste, and preferences. There is always an exception to one’s individual styling rules. Therefore, if you love these trends and they work for your needs and likes, please enjoy them! I have seen examples of these styles that I enjoy seeing on others but wouldn’t on myself.

Sources:
 

Where to View the Collections Online:

Ambush Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/ambush#gallery-collection.

Bottega Veneta Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta#gallery-collection.

Brunello Cucinelli Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/brunello-cucinelli#gallery-collection.

Chanel Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/chanel#gallery-collection.

Del Core Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/del-core#gallery-collection.

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/dolce-gabbana#gallery-collection.

Ermanno Scervino Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/ermanno-scervio-rtw-fall-1235103788/.

Fendi Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/fendi#gallery-collection.

Gucci Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/gucci#gallery-collection.

Hermès Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/hermes#gallery-collection.

Isabel Marant Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/isabel-marant#gallery-collection.

Lanvin Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/lanvin#gallery-collection.

Lecount Mansion Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/lecourt-mansion-rtw-fall-1235122637/.

Litkovskaya Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.kaltblut-magazine.com/litkovskaya-fall-winter-2022/.

Loewe Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/loewe#gallery-collection.

Louis Vuitton Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/louis-vuitton.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#gallery-collection.

Miu Miu Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/miu-miu#gallery-collection.

Nensi Dojaka Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/nensi-dojaka#gallery-collection.

Ottolinger Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/ottolinger#gallery-collection.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/philosophy#gallery-collection.

Prada Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/prada#gallery-collection.

Rick Owens Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/rick-owens#gallery-collection.

Roksanda Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/roksanda#gallery-collection.

Saint Laurent Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent#gallery-collection.

Schiaparelli Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/schiaparelli#gallery-collection.

Simone Rocha Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/simone-rocha#gallery-collection.

Supriya Lele Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/supriya-lele#gallery-collection.

Thom Browne Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved 1 Oct. 2022 from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/thom-browne#gallery-collection.

Vogue France Editors. Vogue France Collections Fall/Winter 2022/2023. Vogue Collections, Number, no. 34, 29 April 2022, pp. 44, 49, 52-53, 64, 68-69, 72, 86-87, 91-93, 114, 121 134-135, 140-141,144-145, 148-149,156,186-187, 194, 225, 228, 232, 235.